Climbing Mount Kinabalu: All You Need to Know

“It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.” Easily enough for Sir Edmund Hillary I thought when I hit ‘book’ on the Amazing Borneo website in February 2024 with more than a little delusion of grandeur.  Friends who weren’t that much fitter than me had managed it and Lonely Planet gave guarded encouragement that anyone with moderate experience of hill walking would be able to conquer it.

Three months later, I found myself at the base of this giant in Sabah, Malaysia, with a mix of excitement, nerves, and a far too full backpack - which is where I started thinking I wished I paid more attention on what to leave behind!

A Quick Intro

Standing at 4,095 meters (13,435 feet), Mount Kinabalu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a bucket-list climb for many adventurers visiting Borneo. The trail winds through lush rainforest, open alpine meadows, and granite rock formations, ending with a breathtaking sunrise view that makes every aching muscle worth it.  At least I’m told it does because the first day was shrouded in mist so I rarely saw much beyond the back of my guide

I booked my trek with Amazing Borneo, a highly rated agency with excellent reviews relating to their professionalism and seamless organization. They sorted everything - permits, pick up from Kota Kinabalu, a place in the Laban Rata guesthouse 2/3 of the way up and the mandatory guide…of which more later. 

Contact Information for Amazing Borneo:

• Website: www.amazingborneo.com

• Email: info@amazingborneo.com

• Cost: $550 - $750 depending on the time of year and size of group (includes guide, meals, accommodation, transfers)

Other reputable agencies that friends have used and recommended include:

• Downbelow Adventures: Known for personalized service and eco-friendly practices. Website: www.downbelowadventures.com

• Borneo Calling: Offers affordable packages with experienced guides. Website: www.borneocalling.com

• Mountain Torq: Specializes in via ferrata climbs for the more adventurous. Website: www.mountaintorq.com

A few words of guidance before you book:

• Only 160 permits are issued per day by the Sabah authorities (which corresponds to the number of beds available a the guesthouse).   Book early – I couldn’t get my preferred Saturday climb date when I booked three months in advance. 

• The Via Ferrata option is more expensive but less popular so places tend to be available at shorter notice.

• You cannot hike to the summit and back in a day – it’s mandated you stay overnight at the Laban Rata guesthouse.

• Your agency will arrange lunch for you on both days so restrict your food packing to snacks (and water…lots of water!)

• Pick up from Kota Kinabalu will be around 6-6.30am and depending on group size and speed, you’ll likely get back around mid-late afternoon.  So block out two full days from your travel schedule…trust me you won’t feel like doing much beyond a massage once you return!

Day 1: Up to Panalaban Base Camp

A few days before the climb, I received a full itinerary advising pick up from my hotel (I opted for the Holiday Inn in Kota Kinabalu for the predictable quality of bed and a/c).

Pick up was promptly at 6.15am with the national park about 90 minutes away.  There’s a predictable amount of faffing in signing in and being given your all-a-little-corporate ID lanyard which must be displayed at all times.   If you’re more organised than me (or just plan lazy) there’s a porter service too to carry your luggage up (14MYR per kilo return fee). 

This is also where you’ll meet your guide and here’s where I lucked out.  As I was a solo traveller, I was assigned an individual guide – Jonny – who’d be with me every step of the way.   After giving me the once over, Jonny gently but firmly told me ‘slow and steady’ which before the mantra for the next 26 hours.

The journey began at Timpohon Gate, the official starting point of the.  Something all the guidebooks will tell you is that the challenge with Mt Kinabalu comes with literally every step being uphill.  This felt like overkill but barring a deceptive downhill section right at the start, it’s true and then some!  The trail begins with a steady incline for the first 2km, winding through dense mossy forest with towering trees and vibrant flora. Early on, you’ll encounter gurgling streams and wooden bridges, making it feel like a scene from a – rather foggy - nature documentary.

The first hour was relatively easy but after the 2km marker (you’ll learn to welcome these with gushing gratitude!) the terrain becomes rockier, with occasional uneven steps and tree roots to navigate.  Rest stops are scattered every kilometre, each with a shelter, benches, toilets and water butts (untreated so bring purification tablets).  The Kinabalu squirrels will be only too happy to share your food so do not leave your bag open!

The air grew cooler as we climbed, and the scenery transitioned to a more alpine landscape with shrubs and stunted trees.  It’s a hard slog, particularly the final 1.5km to the guest house, which took me in excess of an hour as the air thinned and the gradient became steeper, but Jonny’s constant refrain of ‘slow and steady’ and to take deep breathes got me through. 

The Panalaban Base Camp (better known as Laban Rata guesthouse), perched at 3,270 meters and just before the 6km marker, is your residence for the night.  We arrived at 1.45pm (4.5hrs after setting off).   The dormitory-style accommodation was basic but clean, with bunk beds and warm blankets – as an early arrive, I scored a place in a 4-man dorm.  For the next 12hrs there’s not much to do than to wander the grounds (you’ll get the obligatory smug photo at the height marker ;-), take dinner when it arrives from 4.30pm and get to know your fellow climbers, who you’ll be sharing rooms and tables with.   The rocky area above the sign also had a smidgen of mobile signal which allowed me to confirm I hadn’t yet fallen to my doom to loved ones back home.

My what to bring guide has several details of what to be aware of for your stay at Laban Rata.  Be aware that people will start stirring for dinner at 1am (yep, that’s as bamboozling as it sounds) so there’s no shame of turning in for the night early.

Day 2: The Summit Push

Dinner service begins at 1.30am and seemingly the other 159 climbers got to the queue before me.   Jonny and the other guides streamed in shortly after 2am to sweep up their climbers to begin the summit.   Headtorch, lanyard (they check the permits about halfway up the final climb) and gloves at the ready, we set off…slow and steady with 2.2km and 800m ascent to go.  You can leave discarded clothing and other baggage in your room so, fingers crossed, your bag will be considerably lighter than Day One!  

The first hour of the final climb is up a series of staircases clinging to the smooth mountainside.  As everyone sets off at more or less the same time, regardless of ability or group size, bottlenecks form quickly and I found myself tucked into the middle of a corporate away day group from Kuala Lumpur.  In hindsight, this was the best thing that could have happened as it forced me to go slower and conserve energy which you definitely need in the final section – plus Jonny told me in no uncertain terms not to overtake!

The final section involved steep steps and rocky paths, with ropes provided for added stability on slippery sections. The terrain here was a mix of jagged rocks and smooth granite slabs. As we approached the summit plateau, the vegetation disappeared entirely, leaving only stark granite expanses under the starry sky.  It felt rather remarkable to be lit purely by the light of the full moon as the group spread out.  Each step became a battle against the thin air, but the sight of the horizon slowly beginning to glow with the promise of sunrise kept me going.

By 4:45 AM, I was standing at the summit Low’s Peak, watching the sun rise over a sea of clouds. Or to be more accurate queuing for the obligatory photo at the peak itself! As soon as the photo was taken, Jonny swept me back down the mountain a few metres and onto a plateau with a sensational view of the peaks behind Kinabalu and the sunrise itself – one of those ‘pinch me’ moments where I was genuinely lost for words as the sun’s fingers spread and illuminated the expanses of the horizon.  Trust me, the pain is worth it!

The descent is largely at your own pace.  You stop back at Laban Rata for breakfast – which I took with my roommates who had arrived before me - and to pick up your remaining baggage.   The descent, though marginally faster, was no walk in the park. The rocky terrain and steep steps took a toll on my knees, and trekking poles were a lifesaver.    On the plus side, you get to be the encourager of those setting up on the trail with all of the affirmations you heard the day before!

We arrived back at the Timphonon Gate around 13.45 where a packed lunch was provided by the ever-present Jonny and the transfer back to Kota Kinabalu was arranged.   Truthfully, I remember very little of the remainder of the day and the return journey beyond limping my way over to Bella’s Sunset Spa (Warisan Square, 5th Floor, Block B, Jln Tun Fuad Stephens) for a 90 minute massage where I promptly fell asleep until the masseur reached my legs – ouch!

In summary, what you’ll have read is true – Mt Kinabalu is tough but achievable for most of us with a middling range of fitness.  Follow the tips below and my guidance on what to take and you’ll be just fine – slow and steady all the way!

5 Top Tips for Conquering Kinabalu

1. Train Your Legs and Lungs This isn’t Everest, but it’s no stroll in the park either. Cardio workouts, leg strength training, and some hiking practice (particularly the uphill bits) will make a huge difference.

2. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate: The altitude can sneak up on you, so bring a minimum of 2l water for Day 1 and purification tablets to treat the water in butts (allow 30-45 minutes before consuming)

3. Slow and Steady: As Jonny told me repeatedly, the trail is a marathon, not a sprint. Your guide will encourage a slow pace, and trust me, you’ll thank them for it by the time you hit the final stretch.  Don’t beat yourself up for being soooo unfit, the altitude adds a degree of difficulty for every climber! And don't try and be first up the peak on Day 2, that won't end well.

4. Pack Smartly:  You need at least 2 lightweight change of clothes, a waterproof, cash, a powerbank (electricity is limited) and something to do for the long hours at Laban Rata. You don't need a towel (provided) and go light on toiletries, that full shampoo and conditioner bottle will not be your friend four hours into Day One.

5. Get a Massage Post-Climb: Your muscles will ache in places you didn’t know existed, so treat yourself to some R&R in Kota Kinabalu.  The time you return will have some variance so don’t plan to fly out that same evening.  In fact, don’t plan anything