Do-It-Yourself Patagonia: Walking in the Footsteps of Giants

Patagonia has an allure for travellers that dates back centuries. Charles Darwin, traveling aboard the HMS Beagle, described the region as "boundless and bare," while Bruce Chatwin mused, "Patagonia … is the farthest place to which man walked from his place of origin."  It remains a land where the hyperbole is justified – even the ‘land of giants’ moniker given to it by Ferdinand Magellan just feels right!

Stretching across southern Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is vast—larger than Spain and France combined—yet sparsely populated, with fewer people than Iceland. It’s a land of extremes where nature reigns supreme, and adventure is a way of life.

When I started researching Patagonia, I was somewhat resigned to taking a group trip with the cost and constraints that accompany this.   From further investigation, it became clear that while certain itinerary stops (Glacier Pedro Moreno and Torres del Paine) were best served with a tour booking, it was perfectly feasible to do this independently…and considerably kinder on the pocket.

This eight-day itinerary takes you through Patagonia’s highlights, offering stunning hikes, unforgettable experiences, and a taste of its rugged beauty.  You could easily extend any one of the stops - I definitely wish we’d had time to do the W circuit on the Chilean side of the border. That said, even a short stay in Patagonia quickly became one of my all-time favourite trips and an all-too-rare location where the hype is surpassed by the reality.

Day 1: Arrival in El Calafate and Drive to El Chaltén

Begin in El Calafate, a quaint town on the edge of Lago Argentino.  Known as the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, El Calafate gets its name from the calafate bush, whose berries, according to local legend, ensure your return to Patagonia.  The airport is located about 20km away from the town – don’t bother visiting as you’ll be returning in a few days.   Check you have a full tank of fuel as there is next to no facilities between here and El Chalten.

After picking up your rental car, embark on the scenic 220-km drive to El Chaltén, Patagonia’s self-proclaimed trekking capital. The journey offers a feast for the eyes: rolling steppes, snow-capped peaks, and the turquoise expanse of Lago Viedma.  The sun hitting the highway on the final stretch of road into El Chalten required an obligatory pulling over to take in the surroundings and to pinch myself.

At the entrance of El Chalten, take 5 minutes to stop at the Viedma Glacier viewpoint (it’s literally off the roadside) for photos and soak in the first views of the iconic Fitz Roy massif as it rises dramatically from the horizon.  If it looks familiar, it’s likely because it appears on the logo of Patagonia clothing – every day’s a school day!

Once in El Chaltén, check into Hostería El Puma (Lionel Terray 212), a cozy retreat with hearty breakfasts…as a bonus it’s also pretty much at the trailhead for your hike tomorrow.   They can provide maps of trekking routes and there’s very little they can’t advise you on.

Take a wander into El Chalten, which has the pleasant feeling of a frontier town.  Head to La Cervecería (Av. San Martín 320), a local favourite for its decent selections of craft beers and wood-fired pizzas.  There are multiple small shops along Av. San Martin to pick up suppliers for the coming days – be aware due to its isolation, El Chalten is notably more expensive than most other Argentine locations.

Day 2: Hike to Laguna de los Tres

Trail Overview

• Distance: 20 km round trip

• Elevation Gain: 750 meters

• Difficulty: Moderate to challenging

• Duration: 8–9 hours

Laguna de los Tres is both the defining image of Patagonia and – arguably - the crowning jewel of El Chaltén. The trail starts from 100m from the hotel and quickly immerses you in the lenga forests, where leaves in shades of crimson and gold rustle in the brisk breeze. This first section is relatively gentle, allowing you to warm up as you pass bubbling brooks and panoramic viewpoints of Fitz Roy.

The midsection of the trail levels out, offering a chance to catch your breath as you traverse the Rio Blanco Valley. Stop at Piedras Blancas Glacier viewpoint for a stunning side view of this lesser-known glacier, framed perfectly against the rugged backdrop of the Andes.

The final stretch is a steep, rocky ascent, gaining 400 meters in just over a kilometer. This section is demanding but rewarding. As you crest the ridge, Laguna de los Tres comes into view, its glacial waters reflecting the towering Fitz Roy peaks. It’s a scene that will leave you breathless—not just from the climb but from the sheer magnificence of the landscape. Famous mountaineer Reinhold Messner once described Fitz Roy as "one of the most beautiful and challenging peaks on Earth." You’re not going to test the latter part of this quote but it’s hard not to be overawed by the vista before you.  

Note:  If your time in El Chalten is short, you can peel off this trail at about halfway (clearly signposted – don’t worry if you feel like you’ve gone too far on the map) and follow the connecting trail to Laguna Madre and Laguna Hija, two tranquil lagoons cradled by lenga forests (see left picture - not too shabby!). 

This will allow you to get stellar views – albeit not quite as close up - of both Laguna de los Tres and Cerro Torre.  This link trail is equally as jaw-dropping but also devoid of crowds, making it the perfect place to take a moment to pause – and reflect that you’re in Patagonia!!   Total distance of this round trail is around 20km so again, start early.

Once back in town, treat yourself to a steak or plate of empañadas at B Fitz Resto (Av. San Martín 599) which gains plaudits for the quality of its ingredients and hiker-friendly portion sizes.  The local red beer on tap also scores points in my book.

Day 3: Hike to Laguna Torre and Return to El Calafate

Trail Overview

• Distance: 19 km round trip

• Elevation Gain: 250 meters

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Duration: 6–7 hours

Today’s hike to Laguna Torre is a more leisurely, though equally scenic, experience. Starting from El Chaltén, the trail gently climbs through more lenga forests and grassy plains. This initial section is easy, allowing you to appreciate the vibrant foliage.   This is the most popular hike out of El Chalten so start early (by 8.30am in autumn, earlier in summer) to maintain the relative serenity of yesterday.

As you approach the lagoon, the trail becomes rockier but remains manageable. The reward is a breathtaking view of Cerro Torre, its needle-like peak often shrouded in mist.  In colder months, the glacier-fed lagoon is dotted with floating icebergs, their electric blue hues a striking contrast to the grey waters – the reflection is a view that will stay with you for a long time to come

For those with energy to spare, a short detour to Mirador Maestri offers elevated views of the glacier’s jagged crevasses.   

The return back to El Chaltén is relatively gentle and you should be back in town by mid-afternoon, grabbing a coffee and some sugary goodness at La Wafleria (Av. San Martín 640) before heading back to El Calafate, dropping your car at the airport.   Whilst there is a shuttle bus into town ($11.000 ARS), its schedule coincides with arriving flights, which isn’t especially helpful.  Taxis outside the airport (there’s also a kiosk inside to book) accept cards and should cost around $33.000 ARS.

However, you get into town,  I recommend staying at Hotel Picos del Sur (Puerto San Julian 271) for its simple, comfortable rooms and superb breakfast.  Dine at Isabel Cocina al Disco (Av. del Libertador 1349). Their stews, slow-cooked in cast-iron discs, are the ultimate comfort food which you’ll be glad off after the last two days’ exertions.

Day 4: Glaciar Perito Moreno

The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the world’s most accessible and awe-inspiring ice fields. Access is limited to a small number of private operators so you’ll have company today!

Our choice of operator was Hielo y Aventura, whose tours include transport to Los Glaciares National Park from your hotel, lunch and the specialist gear you need to hike on 5,000 year old ice.

A boat ride across Brazo Rico provides close-up views of the glacier’s south face, its towering ice walls groaning and cracking as they calve into the turquoise waters below.  Once on land, you’ll strap on crampons and begin a guided Minitrekking tour across the glacier.  The ice beneath your feet glows in shades of white and blue, punctuated by deep crevasses and crystalline pools.   Your stop includes a complimentary glass of whisky, complete with millennia-old ice as a garnish – one hell of a party trick!

After the trek, you’ll return to the company’s huts where a simple but tasty lunch is served.  The afternoon takes you – via coach – up to the park’s boardwalks, which offer panoramic views of the glacier from multiple angles.   You’ll return to El Calafate by early evening mesmerized and have some time to stroll around the town.

For your final dinner in Argentina, take a 5-minute walk from your hotel to Morrison’s Restaurant (Puerto Deseado 22) whose word-of-mouth reputation attracts national and international visitors en masse.  The local lamb sorrentinos and goulash with gnocchi make for a fitting farewell to Argentina.

Day 5: Onwards to Chile

Time to see the other side of Patagonia, with a jaunt across to Chile.   The border crossing is unremarkable other than its remoteness – processing of passports is relatively quick and you’ll be given a ‘PDI’ form to keep until you leave Chile.  Store it somewhere safe unless you want a world of bureaucratic pain!

Puerto Natales, once a hub for sheep farming, is now the gateway to Torres del Paine national park.  You’ll likely arrive early afternoon so use this time to relax and decompress. 

Hotel Baquedano (Baquedano 570) is a 10 minute stroll to the town centre and offers cooked-to-order breakfasts, friendly staff and recently refurbished rooms.   If required, it’s also 100m from a laundry Lavanderia Milodon (Baquedano 689, open 10.00 – 19.30) which offers a helpful same-day service, as well as self-service options.  This is the day to deal with all of those inconvenient but necessary travel duties!

Spend a relaxed afternoon strolling along the attractive waterfront or visiting the Municipal Historical Museum, which showcases the town’s history and indigenous heritage. For dinner, try Santolla (Blanco Encalada 282), where king crab is the star of the menu.

Note: Everyone entering Chile is required to complete a Customs Affidavit form (available online) which you need to complete before the bus companies will issue your ticket – even if you’ve bought online.  Do yourself a favour and do this on your hotel wifi rather than scrambling around for phone signal like we did.

Day 6: Hike to the Base of the Towers

Trail Overview

• Distance: 22 km round trip

• Elevation Gain: 900 meters

• Difficulty: Challenging

• Duration: 8–10 hours

This is another of Patagonia’s iconic hikes and one that needs a little bit of planning.   Torres del Paine is about 2hrs from Puerto Natales and so requires an early start.  Either hire a car or use a tour agency like Howlanders for a guided hike, including transport.   Either way, you’ll want to be leaving Puerto Natales by 6.30am latest.   You can save yourself time at the entrance to the park by buying the National Park permit here.  It’s possible to buy on arrival with debit or credit card.

During autumn, you’ll begin this hike as the dawn breaks, with a gentle ascent through the Ascencio Valley, where the vegetation glows in the early light of the day.  Keep an eye out for the packs of horses that call the base of the valley home. The trail follows the rushing Torres River, providing plenty of opportunities to pause and take in the scenery.

The Paso de los Vientos (Windy Pass) is the first real challenge. As its name suggests, the winds here are fierce, but the views of the Torres del Paine peaks in the distance make it worthwhile. The middle section through a dense forest offers a reprieve, with relatively flat terrain and dappled sunlight filtering through the trees.  There is a hostel and rest stop here with toilets.

The final ascent is a steep, rocky scramble up a moraine. This section is the most demanding, with loose rocks and a sharp incline. But as you crest the ridge, the Base of the Towers comes into view: three granite spires reflected in a turquoise lagoon. Famous hiker Chris Bonington once said, "This is a place where Earth’s wildness is on full display." Standing here, you’ll feel that wildness in your bones.

After a tricky descent across and down the moraine, the remaining hike back is a delight, particularly the final third as you walk back into the Ascencio valley.  The Welcome Centre has both bathrooms and a small café to refresh before heading back to Puerto Natales.

You won’t be back at Puerto Natales until c. 8pm so pick a spot for dinner with late closing time.  Entre Pampa y Mar(Arturo Prat 379) is a good bet with the local guanaco the star of the menu in both starters and mains.

Note: Chile is an hour behind Argentina but because you’re so close to the border, phones and smartwatches are liable not to pick up the time change.  For early starts to Torres del Paine, you may want a wake-up call, rather than being roused by the hotel proprietor to advise that your tour bus has arrived…just saying…

Day 7: Hike to Laguna Grey

Trail Overview

• Distance: 11 km round trip (to the viewpoint)

• Elevation Gain: ~200 meters

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Duration: 4–5 hours

A return to Torres del Paine but for a much more leisurely day than yesterday.  The trail to Laguna Grey begins near Grey Lodge and takes you through flat lenga forests before transitioning to gentle hills. This initial section is easy, with the trees creating a golden canopy overhead.

Midway, the trail ascends slightly, offering sweeping views of Laguna Grey and the Grey Glacier beyond. Icebergs float serenely on the lagoon, their luminous blues contrasting against the dark waters. For those seeking an extra challenge, continue along the trail toward the glacier itself for even closer views. 

On the way back, take a pitstop at the Cuevas de Milodon (Milodon Caves), named after the prehistoric giantic sloth once endemic to this region.  The caves themselves make for an interesting stroll of 30-45 minutes with a short further walk taking you to the evocatively named Silla del Diablo Devil’s Chair, which can be clambered up for some expansive views – in case more were needed.

Celebrate your final night in Patagonia with dinner at El Brisket (Blanco Encalada 251) where the clue is in the name – everything with finely sliced smoked beef!   This is also an excellent place to sample a Calafate Sour, a twist on the classic pisco sour (whose origin is highly disputed by Peru and Chile) but with the addition of calafate berries, the local forest fruit.   Order a second, you’ve definitely owned it.

Day 8: Farewell

With an afternoon flight to Santiago or bus to El Calafate (Bus Sur also leaves at 7am), spend the morning in Puerto Natales. Enjoy a leisurely breakfast at The Coffee Maker (Manuel Bulnes 213) before taking one last stroll along the waterfront. Patagonia’s magic will linger long after you’ve departed.

Getting There And Around

Argentina

• El Calafate is well connected to other Argentinian airports with several flights a day from Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Rosario, Trelew and Cordoba.

• Ground transportation is timed to coincide with incoming flights.  Most international car hire companies have a presence here too – full list of services and prices here

• Whilst driving is the quickest and most convenient way between El Calafate and El Chalten, up to seven buses a day (journey time c. 3hrs) link the two.

Chile

• Puerto Natales airport is much smaller with a daily flight (leaving early afternoon) to Santiago and season flights to Puerto Montt in Chilean Tierra del Fuego.  

Between The Two

• There’s a daily bus between El Calafate and Puerto Natales (5–6 hours) which departs at 8am.  Tickets can be purchased at the terminal or online through Bus-Sur or Buses Fernández – we went for online but there wasn’t a particular need to as the bus was only a third full. 

• Complete your Chilean Customs Affidavit form (available online) in advance of travel...trust me you don't want to rely on bus station wi-fi. 

• Buses in the return direction leave at 7.30am and 3.30pm. 

• From December 2024, flights commenced between Santiago and El Calafate