3 Days in Tierra del Fuego

It's the end of the world as we know it...and I feel fiiiiiiiiiiiine.

Nestled at the southernmost tip of South America, Tierra del Fuego dangles off the edge of the map.  Known as "The End of the World" on every trinket you can find in town, Ushuaia, its capital on the Argentinian side is often overlooked as a destination in its own right and normally little more than a token stop over for Antarctic cruises. It's surprisingly accessible to get to, with daily 3hr flights from Buenos Aires or 90 minutes from El Calafate in Patagonia.

I'll start by declaring my hand - I was utterly charmed by the dramatic landscapes, fascinating history and adventures that could be vividly recollected three months a dozen countries further on. Three days felt enough for an introduction albeit barely scratching the surface of the outdoor potential of Tierra del Fuego - the Land of Fire.

Early hint – assuming you’re flying in, grab a window seat on the left hand side of the plane .  This is one landing you’ll remember for a long time to come.

Day 1: The Deep South with Darwin

Ushuaia was named by the Yaghan people, indigenous inhabitants who referred to it as "bay facing westward." Later, its dramatic isolation made it an attractive site for a penal colony, where Argentina sent its most hardened criminals (imagine Alcatraz with sealions).

Once you’ve soaked in a bit of local history, hop on a boat tour of the Beagle Channel, the legendary waterway named after Charles Darwin’s ship of the 1850s.   Tours often include stops at Isla de Lobos, where you can be charmed by fur seals lounging or flopping into the waters for fish; Isla de los Pájaros, a haven for cormorants; and the iconic Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse, which for me marked the southernmost point I’d ever set foot.    

From a range of options, we booked through Patagonia Adventure Explorer (2 daily departures at 9.30am and 3pm). Their knowledgeable guides and small group sizes stood out for us – which was noticeable when we came up against boats with a hundred or more guests elbowing for photo space on the top deck – and we were happy to pay a little more for the personalised experience.  Our guide Jorge was not only quick to provide hot chocolate but also gave personalised guidance in fluent English on the geography of the area, including using period maps to demonstrate how we were literally following in Darwin’s footsteps.

Our trip was scheduled to include ‘mini-trekking’ on Bridges Island close to the mainland but we forewent this to go whale hunting (metaphorically!) and were rewarded by not only a close up view of several minke whales but were accompanied back to the harbour by a pod of dolphins - anyone who grew up playing Ecco the Dolphin on the Megadrive/Genesis will appreciate just how exciting this was.

Worth noting that there are multiple tour agencies clustered around the End of the World sign / Cartel de Ushuaia which offer broadly similar tours with different departure times.  As mentioned above, a bit of advanced research on the size of the boat would be sensible!

On returning, we were feeling a bit chilly after 4.5 hrs on the water after a brief visit to the artisan craft market (Feria de Artisanos, 99 Comodoro Augusto – right next to the drop off) to stock up on End of the World souvenirs. Don't mention the Falklands/Malvinas - the local feelings on the matter are very clear!

That evening we ventured out to the spectacular Kaupe (Address: Roca 470) Known for its world-class Patagonian lamb, chunky steaks and impeccable seafood, this restaurant also offers sweeping views of the city and the channel. Obviously, this paired superbly with a Malbec.   We finished Day one at Jeremy Button Gin Bar (Av. Maipú 828) with spectacular cocktails and a night view out to the silent channel

Day 2: Taking Trains and Making Tracks

Anyone with a smidgen of imagination is going to be seduced by the idea of a Train to the End of the World and we were no exception.  Originally used by prisoners hauling timber, this narrow-gauge railway now offers a scenic ride into Tierra del Fuego National Park.   We chose to do this via Viator to see a glimpse of the park afterwards, getting picked up at 8.30am from our hotel.

The route itself is – obviously – scenic, chugging through forests, over rivers, and past stunning valleys, with an audio-guide recounting tales of Ushuaia’s past. 

Truthfully, it’s a massive tourist trap and the train itself isn’t especially comfortable but it’s suitably silly to pass a morning and hard not to enjoy!

Once the train journey ends at Bahía Lapataia, we hopped onto a bus for a brief tour through the national park. The tour takes you to the end of Ruta 3 (better known as the Pan-Amercian highway) on the shores of Laguna Verde, where the glassy waters reflect the surrounding forest. One of the first of many jaw dropping views that would become hallmarks of today. Regretfully, the stop was fleeting and we were soon ushered back into the bus to visit the Southernmost Post Office (picking up the general theme yet?), where – against your better judgment - you will inevitably send a postcard stamped “End of the World'. It arrived back home five months later, meaning it narrowly failed to beat Royal Mail's record of slowest postal service. The bus also stops at lookout points offering panoramic views of the Beagle Channel and the Andes before heading back to Ushuaia at around 1pm.

Over home made burgers and an excellent local IPA in Cerveza Patagonia (Av. Maipú 337), we decided the brief glimpse of Tierra del Fuego that morning wasn’t enough and we wanted something a little more active that afternoon.   We caught an Uber to the trailhead for Laguna Esmeralda, whose appearance on Google gave the appearance of using far too much saturation filter! 

The trailhead is accessible via Route 3, about 20 km from the city (ARS$12k – c. £10/$12 - fare) – note there is no mobile signal at the trailhead so your best bet by far is to agree a time for your driver to pick you up on your return.  We arranged for 3hrs later and the same fare (which without the Uber cut obviously meant more for her) – bring cash.   It’s a fairly popular route so there were drivers touting for business on our return but I wouldn’t chance it!

The 4.5 km trek is largely gentle, winding through lenga forests and marshes, across grassy plains and through a short but steep wooded section before revealing a jaw-dropping emerald-green lagoon cradled by snow-capped peaks – Google didn’t lie, the colours were as vivid as it had appeared and this instantly gatecrashed my list of Top 5 favourite hikes anywhere.   The trail is obvious so no specific navigation gear needed but decent boots recommended as the trail was a bit muddy.  Apart from a drinks stand at the trailhead (cash needed) there are no facilities so usual snack and water rules apply.  Getting there and back with about 20 minutes at the lake took us 3hrs exactly. 

Proud of our efforts, we headed that night to Beagle Brewery (Address: Av. San Martín 853, Ushuaia) to reward ourselves with craft beer and delicious empanadas. Their red ale, brewed with glacier water won the popular vote for beer of the night…thankfully no green in sight!

Day 3: Birds’ Eye Views and Café Vibes

For our final day, we wanted to splash out on a once in a lifetime experience with a helicopter tour over Ushuaia. Companies like HeliUshuaia (BFN, Luis Pedro Fique 119, - 25 minute walk or 5 minutes Uber from town – note it is NOT at the airport - as we found out to the chargrin of our driver ) offer a range of breathtaking flights over the city, the Beagle Channel, and the jagged peaks of the surrounding mountain. The view from above captures the sheer vastness of Tierra del Fuego and the diversity of landscape, making us regret our decision to head onwards later that day.  Receiving a certificate to confirm I’d flown over the end of the world appealed yet again to my inner seven year old.

Back on solid ground, we ambled back into town and took some time to explore Ushuaia’s café scene. Stop by Ramos Generales (Address: Maipú 749, Ushuaia), a quirky and cozy spot that doubles as a living museum, complete with vintage artifacts and mouthwatering pastries. Their hot chocolate is a must, resembling a warm embrace in a cup after an Antarctic breeze.  For our final lunch, we went for the king crab at La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy (Address: Av. San Martín 326, Ushuaia). Iconic is an overused phrase when describing food but here it’s justified - tender and buttery, is caught fresh from the icy waters surrounding Ushuaia, which must be some of the cleanest water on planet Earth.  

Practical Tips for Visiting Ushuaia

1. Weather Watch: Ushuaia’s weather is famously unpredictable. Pack layers, including a waterproof jacket and sturdy footwear, no matter the season.  We went from T-shirts to fleece and jacket in minutes at various times during the trip.  A snood or Buff is also a decent idea to avoid wind slapping you from every angle.

2. Book Ahead: Tours, especially boat trips and the train to the end of the world, can fill up quickly during cruise season (Dec to Feb) but, regardless, it’s worth doing some research in advance and make reservations ahead of time.

3. Bring Cash: Bring Argentine pesos, as credit cards aren’t always accepted in smaller establishments and for informal taxis as described above. Tipping (10–15%) is customary in restaurants.

4. Uber it up: We were initially surprised at the prevalence of Uber but became grateful for it to get to/from Laguna Esmeralda and back to our hotel at night.  Ushuaia is surprisingly large.

5. Stay Flexible: Weather conditions can lead to cancellations, particularly for flights and boat tours. Build some buffer time into your itinerary if you’re really set on a must-do activity.

If your heart is set on Patagonia, I can understand why you may think Tierra del Fuego is just that little bit more hassle than you want to take on. But here's the thing. It's really not. The hiking is just as epic but Ushuaia has a more diverse range of attractions and - short of Antarctica, you're never getting to say you've literally been to the end of the world.