24 hours in...Wanaka, New Zealand

Wanaka, a dreamy lakeside town in New Zealand’s Southern Alps, is the kind of place that makes you wonder why you haven’t moved here yet.  I visited here in early May 2024 in between Queenstown and Lake Tepako, expecting a perfectly pleasant stop off but was prepared to be underwhelmed after returning from Milford Sound and all of Queenstown’s hedonistic pleasures. 

The name Wanaka comes from the Maori, ‘a place of learning’.   My self-education came as I left 24hrs later, kicking myself profoundly for not dedicating more time to this perfect town.  So if you’re on a tight timescale (or just fail to research ahead like I did!), here’s my guide to spending a full-on 24hrs in and around Wanaka.   Better still, don’t be like me and dedicate several days.

Pre-lunch: Kayaking on Lake Wanaka

Location: Paddle Wanaka Lakeside Road, Wanaka

Price: $35 NZD/hour per person, $60 for 2hrs, $80 for 3hrs – kayak (single or double or SUP)

Hours: 09.00 – 18.00 summer, varies in winter

Find out more: https://paddlewanaka.co.nz

I arrived at around midday following an easy 75 minute drive from Queenstown.  My mood wasn’t the cheeriest as the South Island autumn had taken a decided British turn and my drive over the Crown Range Road was shrouded in gloom.  Not helpful after reading glowing review after review on Tripadvisor.

As I descended into Wanaka, the grey pillars vanished as if dispelled and Lake Wanaka came into view, with the reflections of autumn foliage jumping straight out of a (Kiwi edition) Constable painting.  Predictably, my mood went the same way as the clouds and the excitement associated with arriving in a new town with THAT landscape became palpable.

It felt rude to view the lake as merely an Instagram backdrop so after parking at New World central car park (Dungarvon Street), I headed straight for Paddle Wanaka (Lakeside Road, open 9-6 in summer, varying hours in winter) – a 2 minute walk.

They’ll kit you out and point you to the best spots, you can leave valuables and – even more importantly – a set of dry clothes with them.  John, the amicable Englishman running the show, was a wealth of knowledge of both routes around the lake (not hard – go left or right and don’t cross paths with bigger boats…that rarely ends well!) and wider tips on hiking trails around the town.

I’m told the lake is typically calmest in the morning, making it an ideal time for paddling but it was placid throughout and a lovely way to bask in the autumn sunlight.  I paid for an hour, which was long enough to drift languidly toward Ruby Island without it ever appearing to get closer!

On returning the kayak and a quick costume change, I headed over to Big Fig (105 Ardmore Street, open 8am-8.30pm daily) for a casual lunch. Their slogan is ‘slow food, served fast’ and offer fresh and locally sourced options, which were perfect post-kayak fare. Try the lamb shoulder with a side of harissa carrots and labneh.

Afternoon: A Stroll Up Mt. Iron

In an attempt to avoid the post lunch-slump, I traded the water for land with a quick jaunt up Mt. Iron, Wanaka’s most accessible hike. The 4.5km loop (about 1.5 hours return) starts from the Mt. Iron car park off State Highway 84 (less than 10 minutes from the town centre). The trail winds through rocky outcrops and tussock grasslands, rewarding your effort with panoramic views of Lake Wanaka, the town, and the surrounding mountains.

The climb is short with occasional steep sections but nothing overly strenuous.  On a bright Autumn Saturday afternoon, there was ample company of locals and tourists alike but it never felt unduly crowded.   Along the way, expect patches of native bush, open scrubland, and the occasional rock formation that looks, like everything else on South Island, like it’s been plucked from Middle-Earth. The summit is flat and dense, which allowed me to grab a photo, snack and moment of solitude to have yet another ‘pinch me, I’m in New Zealand’ moment!

Late Afternoon: The Lone Tree of Wanaka

Every guidebook, blog and piece of tourist literature is explicit that no trip to Wanaka will ever be complete without visiting the lone tree, the town’s most famous introvert.  Standing stoically in the lake, this willow has become a global – and I assume somewhat reluctant - Instagram star to the extent that it appears on Google maps as #thatwanakatree.  Thought to be a remnant of an old fence line, the tree embodies self-resilience, an apt metaphor for Wanaka itself for anyone thinking beyond the hashtag.

The tree is located on Roy’s Bay, a 1 mile (20 minute) walk from the town centre.  Just turn left when you get to the lake and follow the tourists walking out of town.

I walked over from my hotel about 5pm, which I was told by the receptionist would mean softer light and fewer crowds.   Fewer is by definition a relative term and while a multinational crowd buzzed around me, walking 30 seconds in either direction away from them gave a moment of calm.

Dinner: Burrito Craft and Quiet Pint

After burning through step target and shoulder target, I was ready for dinner.  I’d been given a recommendation of a friend who have recently visited Wanaka to try Burrito Craft (151 Ardmore Street – one of multiple food trucks at this site).  This food truck is a local favourite for a reason. Their menu features killer burritos stuffed with options like slow-cooked beef barbacoa, jackfruit carnitas – or my choice – battered monkfish, topped with house-made salsas and guac.  In ten weeks of traveling around the world, this stood out as one of the most outstanding pieces of comfort food I’d ever eaten.

Feeling thoroughly stuffed, I finished the night with a stroll over to The Speight’s Ale House (93

Ardmore Street).  As with most places in South Island, local produce is at the heart of the menu – I can highly recommend their Gold Medal Ale and was sorely tempted to branch out to their Old Dark Lager before remembering the 4.30am alarm looming.

Early Morning: Sunrise Hike Up Roy’s Peak

Location: Mount Aspiring Road – <10 minute drive from Wanaka centre

Cost: £2NZD (honesty box at the start of the trail

When I was planning my New Zealand itinerary, it took very little to persuade me to add Roy’s Peak to the itinerary.  The photos alone cause

What time to arrive to reach Roy’s Peak by sunrise?  The simple answer is ‘it depends’…on both the time of year (obviously) and also your relative level of fitness (again, probably obvious but also unhelpful)

Having weighed this up with an assessment of my own hiking fitness (which I generously classed as ‘average), I decided to start at 5.15am - as reminder this was early May.  At which time the car park was about half full but you’re in absolute darkness so ensure you’ve 1) got a headtorch close to hand and 2) have everything you need packed and ready to go. See below for more tips.

The trail is a 16km return (5-6 hours) trek, ascending roughly 1,300 meters.  It’s steep but well-maintained, with a zigzagging dirt path that cuts through farmland at the base. Expect to share the initial stretch with a few inquisitive sheep, who appear in your path like Banquo’s ghost but scuttle away as soon as the headtorch dazzles them.   With hindsight, I was very glad I climbed before sunrise, partly for the obvious photographic reasons but also to avoid the constant glances upwards with the hovering question of ‘how much further…’

As I gained elevation, the landscape shifted to tussock-covered slopes that began to glow golden as dawn appeared in the eastern sky. The higher you go, the more expansive the views, with Lake Wanaka stretching out like a molten coloured jewel below.

The famous viewpoint – which I stumbled upon without realising - is approximately 2/3 of the route up.  It’s justifiably famous for its Instagram shots, offering surreal vistas of the lake, islands, and surrounding peaks from a causeway that stretches out into the air.  I won’t lie, I asked a Korean hiker to capture my ‘money shot’ soon after arriving and it remains one of my favourite memories of the entire trip.   The whole hillside resembles a theatre with enough space for everyone to view the sunrise.   There’s also a helpful toilet positioned discretely out of the photo line.

A lot of guides will end here but as sunrise burned into day, I carried on to the summit (another hour), pausing every few minutes to catch my breath – literally and figuratively. The final stretch of the hike was for me the true reward.  From the top, you’ll be treated to a full 360-degree panorama of the Southern Alps, including Mount Aspiring’s snow-capped peak. In the quiet of an autumn morning, it was hard to picture a more perfect scene.

It's a simple walk down following the same route, marked by jovial locals commenting ‘You’re going the wrong way’ at intervals.  Glancing back up at the transmission tower at the peak, I felt pretty content with my decision.

5 Top Tips for Hiking Roy’s Peak in May

1. Layer up: Temperatures can dip below freezing pre-dawn, so pack a base layer, fleece, and windproof jacket. 

2. Poles apart:  I was extremely glad of my walking pole for both legs of the journey – provides a rhythm on the uphill and saves my knees from catastrophe on the descent

3. Bring a headlamp: The trail is dark, steep and full of livestock in the first hour. A (fully charged) hands-free light is essential for safe navigation, don’t rely on your phone light.

4. Water, water everywhere (nope!): There’s no fresh water on the trail, so bring at least 2 litres per person.

5. Blame it on the weatherman: May can bring unpredictable conditions. Check the forecast and do not even try hiking in heavy rain or high winds – the path is completely exposed (and you won’t get the view anyway).

Breakfast: ...and gelato!

After conquering Roy’s Peak and giving up your sought-after parking space, I felt very deserving of the best coffee and breakfast Wanaka has to offer.  I headed to Alchemy Cafe & Bistro (155 Ardmore Street) back in the city centre, where the caffeine felt decidedly stronger than my legs did and the menu , and the menu channels Dr Seuss in offering up green eggs and ham, together with other brunch staples. 

If you feel like indulging further – and I felt getting 16km in before 11am gave me license – I ended my 24hrs in Wanaka with scoops of Crème Brulee and Salted Caramel gelato from Black Peak Gelato (123 Ardmore Street). 

On your way out of town, make a stop at the Wakanda Lavender Farm (36 Morris Road, $15 December to March, $7 otherwise, open 10.00 - 17.00), a ten minute drive out of town. The fragrant grounds are a delight to stroll around and do wonders for calming the adrenalin from this morning's exertions. Alongside the lavender fields, the small farm with its resident alpacas are mischievously fun and it's a delightful spot for a picnic in warmer weather. The homemade honey from the shop is one of the best souvenirs you can bring home.

Wanaka in 24 hours is not what you should strive for but if you're stopping off here between Queenstown and Christchurch, you can make it an undisputed highlight of your South Island excurison.  Hindsight is wonderful in telling me I should have stayed longer but m final stop before leaving town was to browse the Estate Agents window to see just exactly how much it would set me back to up sticks and relocate.