24 hours in Malaga

In describing their city as ‘la ciudad redona’ (the all-round city), you could be forgiven for thinking the local authorities are damning Malaga with faint praise.  Often dismissed as merely a gateway to the big three Andalucian cities of Granada, Córdoba or Seville, many tourists rush through with barely a second glance or consider it to be little more than a stopover. 

That’s both a crying shame and a fundamental mistake. With 24 hours in Malaga, you can take a dip in centuries of history, enjoy the evocative backstreet tapas bars and sip your way through the best cocktails you’ll find in the region.  Mix and match this whistlestop itinerary to fit the length of your Malaga stopover.

24 hours in Malaga: Getting into Málaga & Getting Around

Malaga is the best connected airport in Spain: Just hop on the C1 train from the airport (€1.80, 12 minutes) and it’ll drop you at Centro Alameda, a short walk from the old town. If you’ve packed light and want door-to-door service, a taxi or Uber will set you back around €20 and take 15 minutes, traffic permitting.

Once in the city, Málaga is blissfully walkable, but if your feet protest after a tapas crawl, the local buses (€1.40 a ride) will keep you moving with minimal effort.  The sparkling new metro is superb value at €1.35 a ticket but starts and ends close to the old town so unlikely to be much use for most tourists.

Day 1 Morning:

Head straight for the Mercado Central de Atrazanas (c/Atrazanas 10 - open 9.00 - 14.00 Monday to Saturday) to grab breakfast and pick up supplies for the day ahead - the smoothie stands get my vote all day long.

The head-high piles of fresh fruit, vegetables and nuts are popular with locals and visitors alike. It might be a bit early in the day for your constitution to consider a fish course but a walk through the seafood section gives a glimpse into Malaga's history as a martime port, which predates tourism by several centuries.

After gorging and ogling in equal measure, it's about a 12 minute walk to your next stop.

The Alcazaba

📍 Address: Calle Alcazabilla, 2

🕘 Opening Hours: Daily from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM (April–Oct), 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM (Nov–March)💰 Entry Fee: €3.50; combined ticket with Gibralfaro Castle €5.50; free entry Sundays after 2 PM🌐 Website  

The Alcazaba isMálaga’s answer to the Alhambra. Built in the 11th century under the Muslim rulers of Al-Andalus, this fortress-palace was designed to protect the city while providing a lavish residence for governors and royalty. Málaga’s Alcazaba is compact than Granada’s showpiece but still dripping in history and Moorish elegance.

Its highlights include the Puerta de la Bóveda (Vaulted Gate), which is part of a clever zigzagging defensive entryway, the Torre del Cristo (Tower of Christ), once used as a chapel after the Catholic Reconquista, and the Palacio Nazaríes, where you’ll find intricate horseshoe arches, delicate stucco work, and serene courtyards reminiscent of a smaller-scale Alhambra. The views over Málaga’s harbor and rooftops from the fortress walls alone make it worth the climb (sensible shoes warning klaxon!)

Book a timed-entry tickets in advance if visiting in summer or at weekends.  Visiting before the group-trip hordes descend at around 10.30 is preferable.  Buy the combined ticket, which includes Castillo de Gibralfaro, but save this for later. Your feet will thank me.

Malaga Cathedral: The “One-Armed Lady”

📍 Address: Calle Molina Lario, 9

🕘 Opening Hours: M–F: 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM; Sat: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM; Sun: 2:00 PM – 6:00 PM

💰 Entry Fee: €10 (discounts for seniors & students)🌐 Website

A short stroll brings you to the Málaga Cathedral, one of the most striking landmarks in the city. Commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella in the 16th century, it was intended to be a symbol of Christian power following the conquest of Málaga from the Moors. Its construction spanned over 250 years, resulting in a fascinating blend of Renaissance, Baroque, and Gothic elements—though it was never fully completed.

Its nickname, La Manquita (“The One-Armed Lady”), stems from its unfinished second tower.  Multiple stories swirl on the reason for this with the most accepted yarn being that the earmarked funding was redirected to support the American War of Independence - so support/boycott as you see fit ;-)

Inside, highlights include stunning stained glass windows, an intricately carved choir with over 40 wooden figures by Pedro de Mena, and an impressive Baroque altar framed by colossal Corinthian columns. If you’re feeling adventurous, climb to the rooftop terrace for breathtaking 360-degree views over Málaga.

Lunch at La Bocana

📍 Address: Calle Cañon 7

🕘 Opening Hours: Daily 12.00 - 16.00 (re-opening in evening)

Despite being spitting distance (don’t try it) from the cathedral, this small café/bar is considerably quieter than the tourist drags on c/Cister and all the better for it (take a look at the spectacularly bad reviews on Google if you don't believe me).

Specialities include bocañitos - an empañada type sandwich - with assorted fillings, including the always popular pork cheek. The local cheese selection, served with nuts and membrillo (quince jelly) with a local white wine (from an extensive selection) is an excellent accompaniment to the high-class people watching you'll get from a shaded outdorr seat (inside seating also available). To top it off, it's all extremely reasonable at c. €30 for two people, including aforementioned wine.

Afternoon:  Post-Lunch Stroll

Walk off lunch with a wander down the spotless Calle Marqués de Larios, Málaga’s premier shopping street and the surrounding side streets. Whether you’re after high-street fashion or quirky Andalusian souvenirs, this pedestrian boulevard is ideal for a spot of browsing or purchasing.

Keep an eye out for the statues of penitents, a uniquely Andalusian tradition linked to Holy Week.  These eerie-yet-fascinating figures wear cone-shaped hoods (capirotes) – no, no, no they’re not KKK members - and long robes, symbolizing repentance.    A miniature version (hollowed to burn a candle or incense inside) makes a memorable souvenir.

Picasso Museum

📍 Address: Palacio de Buenavista, Calle San Agustín, 8

🕘 Opening Hours: Daily 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM

💰 Entry Fee: €12 (discounts for students & seniors) 🌐 Website

Even if you can’t tell your Cubism from your elbow, the Picasso Museum is worth a visit to celebrate the city's most famous son. The collection spans his early sketches to his later, more abstract works.  They’re a bit quiet on the fact he left the city at aged 10 so can hardly claim inspiration from the city but it’s still a well-curated collection.

For those feeling particularly inspired – or believing Cubism to be so easy a child could do it – there are ample ‘Paint your own Picasso’ experiences to be had in the city.  They promise to help you discover your inner artist in two hours – whether that's a good thing you can be the judge of.

Now’s the time to stroll up to Castillo de Gibralfaro (from the combined ticket you bought this morning).  It’s worth the extra couple of Euros you paid for the – even higher – views from the 14th century ramparts, built originally to defend the Alcazaba.  Come later in the day, not only to give your feet a break but to experience the sunset over the Mediterranean.  Soothing and spectacular in equal measure.

Dinner at Comparte Tapas Bar

📍 Address: Calle Strachan, 11

🕘 Opening Hours: Mon–Sat: 1:00 PM – 11:00 PM; Sun: Closed

This was hands-down my favourite tapas bar in Malaga.  Its décor is deceptively modern but the tapas is as good as anything you’ll find elsewhere in Spain, served by the ambidextrous owner, who has the energy of a Duracell bunny. 

Order a selection of croquetas, pork cheek and crispy patatas bravas to share.  Then order several more.  I get very grumpy at bad croquetas but was positively purring at the end of this meal.

Pair it with a robust Rioja and Ribera del Duero wine or homemade sangria, which is light and refreshing, not the sugary horrors you'll find at many bars along this stretch of coast.

Cocktails at Pharmacy Cocktail Club

📍 Address: Calle García Briz 3

🕘 Opening Hours: Tues–Sun: 7:00 PM – 2:00 AM; Mon: Closed 🌐 Website

From my last visit to Malaga, my biggest surprise was the top tier cocktail scene – a million miles away from the watery mojitos and over-sugared Sangria I’d feared.  Top of the list was the Pharmacy Cocktail Club in the north of the old town where nightcaps are served with a dash of botanicals and a side of old-school glamour.  Tucked away in a historic building, this intimate, dimly lit speakeasy channels a vintage apothecary aesthetic (think antique medicine bottles, smoky glassware and a menu promising ‘liquid prescriptions’).

Getting a seat at the bar is worth the front row seat.  Mixologists craft a carefully crafted blend of classic and inventive cocktails, with house specials like the Penicillin 2.0 (a smoky whisky and ginger masterpiece) and the Andalusian Gimlet, infused with local citrus and herbs.   Refreshingly unpretentious, the multi-lingual staff are only to happy to make recommendations based on your personal tastes.

Like many tourists, the prospect of time in Málaga initially didn’t fill me with joy but I discovered a city that had a marvellous balance of history, art and gastronomy.  With streets so spotless they shine (no, really) and a far better culinary scene than you might expect, it’s a delightful place to stroll – with or without a purpose – and a superb addition to any Andalucian road-trip.